Friday, April 22, 2011

Sit-Down Snack: Extra-Virgin

Can you spot the truffle in the asparagus and mushroom salad? I couldn't.

The next time I slink into dimly-lit Extra-Virgin for an afternoon bite, I will try harder to blend in with the crowd. I'll wear knee-high boots that have never once trudged through a rain puddle or pile of dog poo, and I'll tote a purse five times the size of my head.  And if I really want to fit in, I'll fake a European accent.

The food is as lovely as the fashionable guests.  A simple beet salad arrives as a tower of shredded  apple, endive, and beet atop a base of fried goat cheese. Pistachios scattered around the rim of the plate resemble stones dotting a brook.

The asparagus salad plays with temperature, offering warm asparagus and mushrooms with cool greens and sweet, lightly charred corn. A Parmesan crisp standing up like a little solider in the middle of the salad adds salty crunch.  I see blackish dots speckling my truffle vinaigrette but don't taste or smell the slightest bit of truffle. Still, the salad is loaded, fresh, light, and satisfying.

259 West Fourth (at Perry)

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